— Epoxy: You may also try using an epoxy glue or putty in the screw’s pre-drilled pilot hole. These substances should securely lock your screws in place.
— Before attempting to screw into hard woods try pre-drilling whats called a “pilot hole.” This should allow a much easier entry point – a little pocket, if you will – for the screw. In the hardest woods your pilot hole should measure about ½ the diameter of your screw – in softer woods your pilot hole should be about ¼ the diameter of your screw.
5.) Drastic Measures: Some screws just won’t budge without a screw extractor. Pre-drill and pilot hole into the screw and insert your screw extractor (a drill bit-like accessory fastened to a T Handle). The extractor should, with a few rotations, pull the screw loose, but be careful not to break the it off inside the screw. The last method is spark erosion. Spark erosion effectively dissolves the screw without damaging surrounding materials. Electrical discharge machining, however, is rare and difficult to come by. One must find a facility that provides the service, and it may not be worth the
— If the pilot hole doesn’t seem to be enough to entice the screw through, try rubbing a bit of paraffin wax or moist bar soap along the screws threads. This technique is especially helpful with the softer metal screws like brass or aluminum.
Rather than scraping up your hands and tables while you scoop and slide your screws and nails to cleanup, try this quick cleanup method. To begin simply invert (or turn inside-out) a plastic bag – or even a sock. Place a magnet inside the bag and pick up your spare parts with the magnet. Once you’ve got all your parts in the bag, return it to its right-side-out position. And, voila, cleanup is in the bag! Craftsmen might also use multiple bags to keep spare parts separate and organized.
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